Wiring

 
 

Tools

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Crimper
Wire strippers
Micro Phillips & flat screw drivers

 

Components

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10 GPIO female to female ribbon
3’ length of 20 AWG red/black wire
6” length of 18 AWG copper/aluminum wire
3.5mm barrel jack with leads
3 - wire nuts

 

 

077

Study this wiring schematic until you see it when your eyes are closed and then you’ll be ready for this level.

*But really, you can always just scroll back up to it.

 
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078

Grab the ribbon of 10 GPIO wires. The orange, red and brown wires that have red crimps on them can be peeled off from the rest of the wires. The next wire is yellow, and it’s a back up wire. You can also peel that off from the rest of the wires and set it to the side. Now you’re left with six wires in the ribbon.

 

079

Slide one side of those six wires onto the pins at the top of the relay board, like so:

Black on GND (Ground)
White on IN1
Grey on IN2
Purple on IN3
Blue on IN4
Green on VOC (Current)

 
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080

Strip the ends of the sensor wires about 1/2 inch. Grab the ribbon of the wires with the crimps that you peeled off earlier. You’re going to crimp the sensor wires to those GPIO wires.

 

081

When crimping, make sure the stripped wire is inside the metal crimp, but not so far that the insulated sheath of your wire goes into the crimp. Also, the red plastic of the crimps stick out further than the metal crimp itself, make sure your crimper is over the metal, and not just the plastic or you could nip your wire.

 
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082

Line up the colors, red to red, orange to orange and black to brown. Crimp all three wires.

 

083

Take the 3.5mm jack with leads and pull the wires apart to give yourself some slack to work with. You’ll notice that one wire has white stripes on it. That’s the current wire (a.k.a. red wire).

 
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084

Now plug that barrel jack into the barrel jack port that is mounted on the ultrasonic humidifier board.

 

085

Since we’re here, grab the end of the JST extender coming from the mister and plug it into the ultrasonic humidifier board as well.

*The JST head only fits one way, don’t force it.

 
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086

All plugged in on the ultrasonic humidifier board.

 

087

Take the wire from the LED and feed it into the slot on the chassis that is just above the exhaust fan and beside the Raspberry Pi. Leave yourself a good bit of slack.

 
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088

Now grab the barrel jack mount and take the nut off of it. Slide the barrel jack mount in the center hole on the top left chassis wall.

 

089

From the inside of the chassis wall, thread the nut back onto the barrel jack mount.

*Use your needle nose pliers to make it snug.

 
 
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090

THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO READ CAREFULLY!

Take your 18 AWG wire with slide on terminals. One wire is made of copper and one is made of aluminum. Put the copper wire’s slide on the shorter of the two prongs sticking out the back of the barrel jack mount.

 

091

Then put the aluminum terminal slide on the longer, remaining prong.

*Use your needle nose pliers to tighten the terminal slide’s jaw, if need be.

 
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092

Now we’re going to strip wires. Grab your LED wire and strip the outer sheath down about six inches. Use the wire stripper’s 14 AWG stranded tooth to do this.

 

093

Now strip the inner red and black wires.

 
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094

Nice and pretty.

Actually, while we’re at it, go ahead and strip any red or black wire that isn’t already stripped.

 

095

Now, take your 18 AWG stranded wire and peel the two wires apart enough to strip both sides. This wire doesn’t have red and black, it uses copper and aluminum. Copper is hot/red/power. Aluminum is return/black/ground.

 
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096

Gather together all the hot wires:

Copper 18 AWG wire
Striped wire from mister
Red wires from BOTH fans
Red wire from LED
Either wire from heater
Red wire from 12v to 5v converter

 

097

Then wire nut them all together. Twist the stranded wire around each other while keeping the insulated sheath out of the mix. Place the wire nut on top of it and twist clockwise. If done correctly, it will bite into the rat’s nest of wires and hold them all tight.

*Test by giving each wire a soft tug to confirm that it’s secure.

 
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098

Like that.

 

099

Take your three foot length of red and black wire and cut it into five equal parts

*Right around seven inches in length each.

 
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100

Peel apart the wires, we only need the black ones for this. Strip both sides of all four black wires.

 

101

We’re going to take those black wires and connect them to the relays.

 
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102

There are four relays, each with three screw terminals. These four wires will go in the center terminal of each relay. Use your small screwdriver and loosen the center screw until it’s flush with the top of its housing, don’t take it out all the way. Slide your wire into the terminal then tighten the screw until it’s tight. Tug the wire to test it.

 

103

This is another angle.

 
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104

Once you’ve done all four, it’ll look like this.

 

105

Now, just like we tied all the red wires together, we’re going to do the same with the black. So that would be:

Aluminum 18 AWG wire
Black wire from relay IN1 (Mist)
Black wire from relay IN2 (Fans)
Black wire from relay IN3 (LEDs)
Black wire from relay IN4 (Heater)
Black wire from 12v to 5v converter

 
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106

Now the last bit is to connect the black wires from our modifiers (fans, lights, ultrasonic humidifier, heater) into the relays. If you’re looking at the relay terminals, all of these wires need to go into the terminal to the left of center.

 

107

Since there are two fans, we have two black fan wires, but we need them to act as one for our relay to control them properly. Take your third wire nut and the fifth and final piece of black wire. Strip both ends. Wire nut together the two black wires from your fans and black wire. Now that extra black wire will go into the relay terminal.

 
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108

So the lettered wire from the 3.5mm jack on the mister board would go into the left terminal on IN1. The rest of the modifiers are listed below.

IN1 - Ultrasonic humidifier
IN2 - Fans
IN3 - LEDs
IN4 - Heaters

 

109

Once complete it will look something like this.

 
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110

Here’s another angle of it.

 

111

Finally, take the free ends of your 9 GPIO pins and plug them into the Raspberry Pi as shown in the wiring diagram.

Now let’s go add solar to this puppy!

 
 
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